APRIL - GARDEN PREPARATIONS

Source: Ulster County CCE

Here we go again with another annoying post about what you should or can be doing now for vegetable gardening...

• It's finally time  to start your warm weather vegetables indoors.   Remember these seeds like starting soil temperatures of  at least 60°F, but between 70°F and 78°F is what  tomatoes, peppers, eggplants etc. really like.  

•  If you have already started onions,  kale, cabbages, broccoli, and Swiss chard, you can set these out.  Place the leeks in a trough so that you can fill in around them as they grow to blanche the stalks. Lettuce can also go out, but it  may need protection against drastic temperature drops - do you have a cold frame or cloche? 

• It's not too late for peas, parsnips, radish, and spinach seeds to go in the ground. 

Source: U. of Maine Extension

• Now is also the time to plant new dwarf fruit trees in your yard. Get them started now if you didn't buy and plant them  last year - you won't get fruit for a few years or so anyway.    Look for the graft line on the stock and make sure to  plant it at least 2 inches above  soil level or you may discover you have a full size standard specimen in 10 years... The Cornell Guide to Growing Fruit at Home will answer all the other questions you might have about turning your yard into an orchard.

• It's also a good time to add any compost or peat to the garden. Better to work it into the soil now then when the garden is half planted.  I find this is easier to do  using raised beds or raised rows, than digging a trench,  mixing in amendments and refilling the trench.  If your soil is compacted, do not just dig a small hole  and mix in soil  amendments for a single plant.  The plant's roots will probably stay confined to the hole. [Although digging a very wide hole would be okay, but raised beds or rows are an easier approach.]

• REMEMBER to label your rows and beds...  AND,  label those seeds you are starting in the cellar or in the sun room.  

What to start seeds in? 

We've mentioned before that having heat mats and grow lights are very desirable items for starting plants indoors. If you have a small garden plot, however, these items entail a significant investment  that might seem like  an indulgent luxury. A single 4 foot grow light, a heat mat and  a timer  can easily cost between $150 and $200. You can also create your own grow light system by  using a regular fluorescent fixture and rigging an adjustable suspension system for it.  It's almost as good as a gold standard model.

Source: Johnny Select Seeds

If you can keep your set up out of the cellar, (say, someone gives you  permission to have it  in the living room) you can dispense with the heat mat, but a grow light really is worth its cost. Planting trays and containers or pots are areas where you can economize. I tend to use large 3 1/4" pots that allow me to grow 24 tomatoes under a grow light. By using smaller pots you could double or triple that number, but you may need to transplant  your children  before relocating them to the great outdoors.

Container options include everything from  compressed manure or peat pots, plastic trays of small plug cells in various sizes  up to 200+ seedlings, to thin plastic cells in the popular 6-pack format. Of course, paper cups will also serve the purpose. Because I sometimes exhibit very frugal behaviors,  I  continue to look for and pick up  containers abandoned by other gardeners. This has allowed me to avoid buying starting pots of any kind for years.  I have also saved and used small yogurt cups  for pots. They work well, but you need to make  drainage holes in their bottoms.

6 pack cells

Compressed peat or manure pots

Some gardeners, whom I know, like  using compressed manure or peat pots, but I'm sort of neutral about it. Their advantages include  reducing the risk of damaging fragile young roots during transplanting and decomposing over the course of a growing season.  The downsides are that 1) it is important that no part of these pots  be exposed to the air because the compressed peat or manure sides can wick volumes of water away from the your seedlings; 2) if you do not keep your garden well watered and the pots moist, the roots of your seedlings may   have difficulty piercing the dry pot sides resulting in stunted plant growth; and 3) you have to buy them every year.

200 cell plug tra

Some kind of leak proof tray for holding your plant containers is essential because the containers have to be able to drain and/or absorb water.  Disposable aluminum baking sheets can also serve the purpose, but  they are too flexible  for easily moving the plants around.  Some of the commercial plastic plant trays are not  very sturdy either -- look for trays that have reinforced bottoms! If you decide to use commercial plant trays, consider also obtaining the clear domes (i.e. covers) for them.  

Clear dome cover for plant tray

typical leak proof tray

The domes  help maintain the temperature and restrict moisture loss while your seedlings are small. They are commonly available in two sizes: 2" and 7" heights). I have also  used the clear plastic bottoms of salad boxes from grocery stores for this purpose. Once your seeds have sprouted, it is important to monitor how tight the covers need to be on the trays.  Keeping the environment under a dome too moist can promote the growth of molds and lead to problems. I use  2" domes and just prop up the domes as the seedlings grow.  When the seedlings get to about 4" in height, I remove the domes.  




Now, get going... 

COMPOST, POTTING & STARTING SOILS

"To buy or not to buy starting and growing mixes, that is the question..."

I don't know whether it is nobler or not to mix your own; but for most backyard gardeners, including me,  the decision is probably mostly a matter of convenience.  My backyard is big enough for me to have  a compost pile that handles our yard waste and kitchen scraps, but I don't have enough space  to warrant creating my own specialized soil mixes because of the quantities of ingredients that I would have buy to make it economically advantageous. I also know that my compost pile never heats up enough to pasteurize itself, and I am quite sure that I would encounter resistance if I were to propose sterilizing the compost in the oven.

Although creating your own specialized soil mixes may not be your cup of tea, composting is something that you should do. If you are interested in composting and have not yet started, this Cornell website provides information about how to start:

 Small Scale or Backyard Composting.

However, for those of us lured by the siren's call of convenience, there are  numerous organic and conventional commercial soil mixes piling up now in stores near you.  Both types contain some combination of organic and inorganic components.  Most combine  peat or sphagnum moss with perlite or vermiculite and add either synthetic or natural  ingredients (e.g. bonemeal, fishmeal, feather material or vegetable compost) for fertilizer.

Source: CWMI

Starting mixes need to be relatively fine and uniform in texture, disease and weed free, allow for soil aeration and retain moisture to minimize the risk of drying out. Growing or potting mixes have  similar characteristics, but  soil particle size is  larger; and they typically include more nutrients, i.e. fertilizers, to promote and sustain plant growth after germination.

You can find many formulas for do-it-yourself soil mixes on the Internet. They seem to follow one of  two variations. The first formula is very simple and  is widely utilized   in  commercial greenhouses: 

                    1/2  vermiculite or perlite
                    1/2  peat

This mix was developed at Cornell University in the 1960's by researchers,  James W. Boodley and Raymond Sheldrake, Jr. You can find out more about it and how to tweak it for various plants from Cornell's Information Bulletin 46: Cornell Peat-Lite Mixes for Commercial Growing.  If you use this mixture in small plug cells, plan on transplanting the seedlings into larger pots with a  growing mix. If you are using larger cells or pots  with the Peat-Lite mix,  then it will be necessary to  fertilize the seedlings to sustain growth until they can be set out.

The second formula    approximates retail commercial mixes. It includes both perlite and vermiculite with generous compost and fiber components to satisfy fertilizing  and aeration needs. Using this recipe you could start seeds in larger plugs or cells and not have to transplant seedlings.

                   4 parts pasteurized compost 
                   1 part perlite
                   1 part vermiculite
                   2 parts peat or coco fiber

Natural Ingredients

And now,  in case you have started wondering what the major ingredients actually are in starting or potting mixes...  Here are brief descriptions:

Peat moss   Source:  U Texas

Peat Moss - This is a natural organic product and not to be confused with  products labeled "sphagnum moss." Peat is the submerged and long dead remains of sphagnum moss along with anything else that might have died and sunk with the moss into the bog.  Peat moss frequently serves as the organic component of economical  planting mixtures and is also  a practical way to add organic material quickly to garden soils.  Being organic, it will continue to decompose in your garden over several years and will eventually need to be replaced. Because it can absorb and hold a lot of water,  peat can also help to keep sandy soils from drying out. However,  it is acidic; and if you use it extensively in your gardens, you should monitor soil pH and occasionally amend the soil  with  a little lime.

Coarse perlite   Source: groworganic.org

Perlite - This is also natural product. As a material, it is an amorphous volcanic glass, i.e. a non-crystalline material and, therefore, not considered to be a mineral. Perlite derives from obsidian,  a product of rapidly cooling felsic lava that    contains high amounts of both silica  and  entrapped water.  The perlite found  in soil mixes has been crushed and then heated driving off the water.   The  fragments expand like popcorn kernels during the heating process.  In soil mixes these expanded fragments can  reabsorb  water and, because of their irregular shape,  also allow for air circulation. Its industrial applications  include use in plasters, insulation, filtration and as a stabilizer for explosives.

Sphagnum Moss     Source: U of Wisconsin 

Sphagnum Moss - This is another natural organic product, but it is derived from the harvesting of  living sphagnum mosses. Unlike its dead remains, i.e. peat, it is chemically neutral despite growing in an acidic environment that it has helped create. Being chemically neutral means that you do not have to worry about it acidifying your garden soil; however, it is a lot more expensive than peat.  Like peat, sphagnum moss also retains water well and is used especially in seed starting mixes and in container gardening.  Orchid growers and growers of carnivorous plants love sphagnum moss too because it provides the natural soil environment that their pets need.

N.B. Sometimes the word "sphagnum" appears on packaged soil products, but if the labeling does not explicitly state "sphagnum moss," it is probably something else, frequently peat.

Vermiculite   Source:  Vermiculite.org

Vermiculite - This is also a natural product.  As a material, it is a  hydrous phyllosilicate mineral,  i.e. it formed into layered sheets with a definite crystalline structure (think mica) resulting from the interaction of  felsic and mafic  rocks.   Unlike perlite, vermiculite contains relatively high amounts of magnesium, potassium, phosphorus, some calcium and relatively low amounts of  silica.    Vermiculite is also  heated to drive off its entrapped water and "exfoliate" (i.e. separate) its layers. Like peat and perlite, as a soil amendment, vermiculite can retain water, but the presence of the other  elements both  serve as buffers against  changes in soil pH and as  sources for some plant nutrients.  In addition to its horticultural uses, vermiculite has many industrial and construction applications including those of insulation, fire retardant and waste water filtration.

Plant Nutrition - Micronutrients

More snow! No outdoor gardening in sight. You might as well read the blog...

In a recent post  we discussed plant macronutrients along with a little information about types of fertilizers. So check that post again in case you've already forgotten about it. Now,  let's review the eight micronutrients. These elements are needed in much smaller quantities than the six macros, but they are also very  important -- Otherwise, they would not be identified as  part of the "essential" fourteen.

For most  backyard agrarians discerning  nutrient deficiencies, especially those of micronutrients,  may be more art (or more likely guesswork) than exercising analytic skills because symptoms frequently are quite similar to one another. Fortunately,  micronutrient deficiencies are quite rare in garden soils. When they occur, problems are usually triggered by soil pH levels falling outside of the comfort range of vegetables. The good news is that most micronutrients are replenished by  regularly adding new compost to garden soils. 

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Boron deficiency.  Source: U Mn

Boron (B) -  Boron is transported through a plant by evapotranspiration. Because it concentrates in plant growth areas, a deficiency will show up quickly as wrinkled and deformed leaves that eventually die. Deficiencies may commonly occur in sandy soils and can also be triggered by inadequate watering in any soil. Deficiencies may be addressed by applying a solution of 3/4 ounce of Borax (barely 2 tablespoons) to 100 gallons of water. That ratio makes a concentration of 20 ppm (parts per million). Plants respond quickly, but it's very easy to reach toxicity levels. So be frugal, maybe just use a skimpy pinch of Borox in that watering can.  

 

Chlorine toxicity. Source: U Md

Chlorine (C) -  Chlorine is used in several photosynthesis processes. Chlorine usually derives from the natural weathering of soil minerals and its deficiency is very uncommon. In fact, I could find  no specific commercial source for it as just a fertilizer...  However, chlorine toxicity  poses a real risk.  Salt run off from roads, walkways and, yes, seepage and evaporation from swimming pools can quickly affect plants. Symptoms first appear as yellowing at leaf tips followed by leaf chlorosis. If this wasn't enough, (C) chlorine from industrial  air pollution can also lead to leaf chlorosis and plant death.  

Copper deficiency.
Source: haifa-group.com

Copper (Cu) - At 5 ppm  copper's presence has  one of the smallest footprints, but as a nutrient it is required for photosynthesis and other foliar (leaf) activities. In deficiency, vegetable leaves may develop a pale bluish tint, grow twisted and later show spotty chlorosis. In grains,  symptoms are different, e.g.  corn leaves may be yellowish and remain small. Toxicity also inhibits root growth and triggers iron (Fe) deficiency.

Iron deficiency.
Source: haifa-group.com

Iron (Fe) - Iron is also used in photosynthesis and some enzymic activity. It's generally readily available in soils. Deficiency can occur if soils are over-fertilized,  remain water-logged or pH levels are out of whack,  especially when on the  alkaline side (pH > 6.5).  The initial symptoms appear as tiny spots of interveinal chlorosis, i.e.  dead spots showing up within the vein lines of a leaf. Toxicity is rare but can inhibit the take up of manganese (Mn). So like many of these nutrient deficiencies, maybe the deficiency you think you see in your plants  is actually caused by something else...

Manganese deficiency.
Source: allotment-garden.org

Manganese (Mn) - Manganese usually occurs with iron (Fe) in soils and shows up in plant "mertistematic tissue" [i.e. the growth areas:  roots & shoots] as well as in photosynthesis. Deficiency can also develop from water logged conditions as manganese (Mn) is leached away.  The symptoms look a lot like iron (Fe) deficiency symptoms: interveinal chlorosis in younger leaves.  Plant tolerance for high levels of manganese varies from species to species, but will appear as dark purple or brown spots around leaf margins when it occurs. An interesting twist for us amateur plant diagnosticians to note is that too much manganese (Mn) interferes with the take up of iron (Fe)...  So guess what it might look a lot like?

Molybdenum deficiency.
Source:  hazerain.com

Molybdenum ( Mo) - Molybdenum has an exceedingly  small presence with many plants only needing  a concentration of about .20 ppm! Upon take-up molybdenum goes into the leaves where it stokes the first of two enzymic  activities involved in reducing nitrate to ammonia that in turn gets processed  into amino acids. If there is a deficiency, it shows up with the symptoms of  nitrogen (N) deficiency because some amino acids were not produced. Symptoms start with chlorosis in mature leaves, then leaf wilting and leaf death followed by death in other growing areas.  Toxicity is so extremely rare, however, that you really don't have to worry about it because plants can tolerate high levels of molybdenum. 

Nickel deficiency.
Source: eplantscience.com

Nickel (Ni) - Nickel is another nutrient commonly available  in soils, and sometimes too available  either at former industrial sites or in excessive concentrations in treated sewer sludge. Plants only need concentrations between .05 - 5.5 ppm in order to metabolize urea into ammonia. Legumes, pitted fruits and nuts are very sensitive to its deficiency in soil. Concentrations of nickel over 100 ppm  are quite toxic to plants with tomatoes being especially sensitive by exhibiting toxicity starting at only 20 ppm.  Symptoms may  appear in young leaves as dead tips  or as symptoms  similar to iron (Fe) deficiency.  Plant death can rapidly follow.

,

Zinc deficiency
Source: plantphys.net

Zinc (Zn) - Just accept it that zinc is involved in a wide variety of a plant's chemical processes, too  many to name or  much less for most of us  backyard gardeners to care about. Its deficiency shows up in mature leaves as interveinal chlorosis, then scorch and finally "necrosis" (i.e. tissue death in limited other areas). Regarding toxicity, to quote the U of Maryland's Master Gardener's Handbook, "toxicity may occur in low pH soils or where  municipal sludge has been added to soils."  This is our second reference to sludge in this post, and maybe  we should start having second thoughts about those free offers for municipal compost etc. from our town offices... 


That's all for micronutrients, folks.  Thanks for persevering and remember:

"All gardeners know better than other gardeners.  - Chinese proverb

SOIL TEMPERATURES  IMPORTANT FOR SEED GERMINATION

In early spring excited gardeners like talking about the "growing season"  characterizing it as being wet, dry, cold, warm, early, late, etc.  But what exactly is a "growing season"? A "growing season" is  commonly recognized as the average dates between the last frost of spring and the first frost of autumn  delineating the span of time  plants have to complete their annual growing cycles. 

In most of Rensselaer County, the historical growing season covers about 150 days. Recent data  from the US Environmental Protection Agency shows that New York's growing season since 1970 has increased to around 160+ days. This means that our favorite vegetables have ample time to sprout, grow and  be harvested because most of these vegetables complete their growing cycles within just 85 to 120 days. The downside is that the longer season reflects the effects of global warming that also may bring more extreme weather events such as heavier rainfalls, higher temperatures in summer, and the arrival of new pests from southern climes -- things that vegetables don't like.

Home gardeners, however,  need to focus on more than just that last  frost in order to get a head start on either spring or their neighbors.  Some other important factors affecting a given year's "growing season"  include air and soil temperatures, rainfall patterns and soil moisture as well as light levels to name a few.  Of these, air temperature is arguably the most critical factor as it  provides the energy (i.e. heat) that determines  a plant's germination and growth rates.

Cool weather vegetables such as peas, spinach and radishes will start to germinate in soil temperatures around 40°F, while warmer weather crops such as bush beans, cucumbers and squashes germinate at soil temperatures starting at around 60°F.  The two charts below clearly illustrate these differences in seed germination requirements.

Sugar snap pea. Source: Johnny Select Seeds

Bush bean. Source: Johnny Select Seed

For both peas and bush beans, optimal seed germination occurs at distinctly warmer soil temperatures than threshold temperatures, germination rates increase up to a peak soil temperature and then decline eventually ceasing as soil temperatures exceed the optimum point.   Seeds planted at or near their peak germination temperatures  sprout faster and may emerge within only a few days. Seeds planted at threshold gemination temperatures will take longer (e.g. a couple of weeks or more) to germinate   and emerge because their chemical activities, although triggered,   are occurring  at  much slower rates.  This means that it may not be advantageous to put seeds in the ground at the earliest possible time if   air temperatures are forecast to remain around  germination threshold levels.

Home gardeners also need to note that seeds of different vegetables  respond differently to soil temperatures that are too cool or too warm for germination.  Radish and parsnip seeds can be planted in soils below their threshold germination temperatures. They will just sit and wait until soils warm up.  Bush bean seeds planted in soils below their germination threshold run a high risk of never sprouting and just rotting as their seed casings soften from soil moisture.  In summer, high soil temperatures near the surface will cause some plant seeds, e.g. many lettuce varieties, to go into a dormant state. 

Measuring Soil Temperature

I use a metal bulb soil thermometer to check soil temperatures in spring before planting seeds or setting out seedlings.  You can also use typical household thermometers as long as their scale goes down at least to 32°F, but you may have to use a screwdriver or small trowel to soften the soil before inserting  those plastic models into the ground.  I measure  soil temperature at a depth of 6."  Soil temperatures will be warmer, of course, closer to the surface which will be better for seeds, but I am looking for temperatures that roots will like after the seeds have sprouted.

Metal bulb soil thermometer

After  seed germination and young plants emerge, air temperature becomes the critical factor in regulating the rate of plant growth and development.   Most vegetables thrive in temperatures akin to comfortable room temperatures,  i.e. between 60° -  80°s F with 78°F frequently mentioned as being the sweet spot.  I recommend gardeners consult Cornell's  Home Gardening Vegetable Guide for information about growing most garden vegetables.  And for now,  let's just note that for vegetables, in general,  their growth mostly ceases when air temperatures reach and/or surpass the mid-90°s F.  More about plant growth, temperatures and GDDs (Growing Degree Days) will be covered in future posts.

Plant Nutrition : Macronutrients 

While we wait for the snow to melt and our gardens to dry out, let's review what plants need and   what fertilizers provide.   Also, if you haven't had your garden soil recently tested and think your vegetables are not up to snuff, we'll identify some of the major "aha" nutritional deficiencies you can look for....   You'll just have to try to remember all this once the growing season starts...

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Every bear in the woods probably knows that plants use the three elements, Hydrogen, Oxygen and Carbon. Plants obtain these three  from  air and water.  But there are 14 other elements that are vital for plant nutrition. Of these, six are identified as "macronutrients" with the remaining 8 elements characterized as "micronutrients" or "trace elements."  Plants actually use other elements as well, but these 14 are needed by all plants. We'll cover micronutrients later  in  a separate post. 

Macronutrients

 Lack of Ca. Source: Cornell Extension

Calcium (Ca)  - Calcium is generally available in soils and is taken into plants through evapotranspiration (water siphoning from the roots through the leaves to the atmosphere). It is the key ingredient  in plant  cell walls. During times of drought (and/or a gardener's under watering) or high humidity, plants do not move enough water through their tissues to supply cell needs resulting  in calcium deficiency.  This is important to note because calcium may not necessarily be deficient in the soil. In either case, this deficiency dramatically manifests itself in tomatoes and peppers, for example,  as blossom end rot. An over abundance of calcium is more subtle to detect because  too much calcium can interfere with the take up of other elements whose deficiencies may exhibit markedly different symptoms.

Chlorosis.  Source: Cornell Extension

Magnesium (Mg)  - Also typically available in soils, especially in clays.  It is incorporated into chlorophyll and plant enzymes.  Its deficiency appears initially as raised areas of  light yellow in mature leaves.  Later, these areas become more pronounce and eventually turn into dead leaf areas (chlorosis). 

Nitrogen (N)   - Nitrogen is utilized by plants in several forms,  but let's skip  over the complex chemistry of the Nitrogen Cycle and just say  that  plants  absorb  these  compounds  incorporating  much of it into   their leaves and the enzymes essential for photosynthesis.  A deficiency will first appear as a paling of mature leaves, then evolve to  yellowing before ending in chlorosis (dead leaves).  Although  nitrogen is essential for plant growth, too much will also cause chlorosis in leaves.  

[n.b. Fertilizers meant for house plants  are typically loaded with nitrogen; and if you use them on vegetables, you will get lots of vegetative growth and less fruit.]

Excess Phosphorus.  Source: U Maryland Extension

Phosphorus (P)   - Phosphorus is used in cell membranes and serves as the primary carrier of energy throughout plant cells.  It is incorporated into DNA and RNA as well as  regulating enzyme activity. It generally occurs naturally in soils, but its availability to plants depends upon soil pH.  A deficiency shows up as dark green or  purplish tints in tomato leaves. Eventually, flowers and fruit do not develop.

 

Potassium deficiency.  Source: Yara.us 

Potassium (K)   - Plants need potassium almost as much as they   need nitrogen, and   potassium also abets nitrogen take up. It maintains various metabolic activities by regulating water within the plant. Potassium deficiency may first appear as yellowing of older leaves before they turn brown. (This may also be called leaf scorch or leaf burn, but other conditions such as exposure to salts, insecticides or too much fertilizer might also cause it.)   The taste and appearance of fruit can also be affected.  

Sulfur deficiency.  Source: haifa-group.com

Sulfur (S)  - Sulfur is utilized in amino acids, proteins, vitamins  and other compounds, e.g. sulfur gives onions and mustard their distinct flavors.  Although sulfur also occurs naturally in some soils, its concentration is relatively low compared with other nutrients and  tends to be  especially low  in sandy soils. Much of the sulphur that is found in soils derives  from the decomposition of  organic materials, e.g. compost.  [This is another  good reason for you to start composting.] A very small amount of  sulphur can also  come from the atmosphere.  Its deficiency appears as yellowing of younger leaves and woody looking stems.

Nutrients and Fertilizers

From what I have observed of neighbors and friends who  try  container gardening, nutrient deficiencies  can show up  relatively quickly because the gardeners do not replenish  the soils from year to year, fail to fertilize during the growing season and/or do not maintain adequate moisture levels. For gardeners, like me, who dig up their front or backyards, deficiencies may take many growing seasons to appear because we are accessing  a greater reservoir of nutrients. Maintaining a consistent moisture level (apart from timely cultivating) is probably our major challenge!

Soils typically have all of the above macronutrients to some extent because these elements  originate from mineralogical sources. However, large percentages of these elements  frequently  are chemically bonded with other compounds in the soil  and rendered  unavailable to plants.  Over time  the usable forms of these  elements   decline as  crops are harvested, remaining plant stock  removed (i.e. diseased plants pulled up and stuffed into lawn bags), leached or washed away by rains etc. Adding compost, natural or synthetic fertilizers replenishes these otherwise lost nutrients.

When backyard gardeners talk about fertilizers, they  are mainly referring to  commercial balanced fertilizers that supply N-P-K (Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium), three key nutrients of the macronutrient group. The concentration of these elements is typically cited as percentages of package weight, e.g. 5-10-5, 10-10-10. The amounts of other macronutrients may or may not be mentioned, and micronutrients hardly ever. The N-P-K combo get the spotlight because they are significant in foliar, root and fruit development; but, as hopefully discernible  from the above text, they are not the whole story.

Fresh & Mature Compost.  Source: permaculturenews.org

Commercially produced fertilizers offer the advantage that they tell you the amounts of some or all of the macronutrients you are getting as opposed to what you sprinkle on your garden from your compost pile. Nutrient specific fertilizers also are available to address  specific soil needs, e.g. sodium nitrate or superphosphate, that might have been identified from a soil test.  Commercial fertilizers derived from organic sources, e.g. those containing bone meal, fish meal,   vegetative compost, manure etc.,  will include more nutrients and also be sterile. The best summary about  the types fertilizers available, I have found, is this one from the Weekend Garden Net.   Scroll past the self-test and look are the chart.

Putting your compost on your garden and mulching does a lot to maintain nutrient levels, especially micronutrients; and if you do not observe any plant problems, keep doing it. Just be aware that our backyard compost piles typically show a N-P-K ratio of around 1-.5-1.  Although you might come to think that plants need a 7 course fertilizing banquet, in reality they make do with very little.  For example, if you want to apply a liquid fertilizer to your vegetable garden, Cornell suggests the following ratio of a dry fertilizer (15-15-15) to water: 1 1/4 ounces of dry fertilizer to 2 1/2 gallons of water. This concentration provides a nutrient drink of only a couple of hundred parts per million!   If you were going to use this concoction for seedlings, cut it down to about 1/8 of a teaspoon. [And, REMEMBER: it is always better to use less fertilizer than too much and do not put either dry or liquid fertilizers directly on plants.] To get better guidance about using fertilizers in your garden, see the Monroe County Extension's publication,  Soil Preparation and Fertilizers for the Home Flower and Vegetable Garden.

"If the grass on the other side of the fence appears greener... it must be all the fertilizer they are using." -  Kevin Rodowicz, MD

MARCH - GARDEN PREPARATIONS

As promised, here is the next installment, or harangue, about what you should be doing now that March is underway, and your having survived dismal February.  Garden soils are probably still wet, cold and maybe some are even snow covered; but, you can still... 

• Prune those grape vines and fruit trees now; the same ones you probably postponed pruning last month... 

  

  Typical hand pruners

• If you are worrying about your soil's pH value or its nutrient levels,  get your soil tested this month.   You still have time to start making amendments to the soil if needed.

• If your garden is mulched,  you might consider  moving   the mulch off the rows in order to hasten soil warming, but  check the weather forecast to determine if predicted temperatures will be moderate. Remember, mulch insulates the soil from summer's heat and also from the warmth of spring's sun.

• You can still start (maybe more?) cool weather vegetables such as cabbage, onion,  parsley, lettuce and beets now. Yes, beets, they do transplant well to the garden.

• Continue to resist the temptation to start those tomatoes, peppers etc. UNLESS you  have grow lights and heat pads or have the perfect large sun room with plenty of space. Otherwise, your indoor seedings may look like those pictured below. Although eventually you could plant these sorry seedlings  in a shallow trench outdoors in late May to spur their root  development,  Cornell studies show that yields from "leggy" tomatoes are notably lower than from healthy plants.   

Source: thespruce.com

Unfortunately,  your window sill is far from being the ideal plant nursery because: A) windows in general do not admit enough light,  B) the days are still not long enough  to provide  8 hours of direct  light, and C) it's a long time until you can set those warm weather seedlings outside.  [n.b. For tomatoes, Cornell's School of Agriculture recommends waiting around 10 days to two weeks after the last frost and night temperatures stop going below 45°F to set out tomatoes.] 

I typically start my tomatoes in early April with a goal of moving them outside  after Memorial Day, or, at least, to begin hardening them off around Memorial day.  

• If you don't have a cold frame, much less a greenhouse, start saving those 1 & 2 liter clear plastic bottles and 1/2 and 1 gallon milk jugs (these translucent jugs work, too).  If you do decide to rush the season, by cutting off the bottoms and removing the caps you can use these containers as little cloches to protect your sensitive seedlings when you abandon them outside.  For other ideas about extending your growing season, this  Cornell guide provides more ideas.

And remember, "Trees and plants always look like the people they live with, somehow." - Zora Neale Huston